Beth Rubin

Thrasher's: still the best!

Most find comfort in revisiting the familiar. And nowhere is that truth more evident than in Ocean City. Surf and boardwalk aside, eating at the beach is an event. For many it is a season-long marathon. The merest whiff of french fries, pizza or caramel corn triggers memories of summers recent and long past.

Soon as I enter Worcester County for my annual rite of spring, my salivary glands shift into overdrive. Comfort comes from finding the old boardwalk fast-food faves have endured, like Thrasher's and Dumsers. But part of summer fun lies in uncovering what's new, even if, over the winter, a favorite establishment has morphed into a condo, cyber cafe or sandlot. As the song says, "that's life."

On a recent visit, I discovered some changes in the OC restaurant scene. What's unchanged: As in years past, varied dining experiences await 2005 beachgoers. While you're changing out of your business clothes, we invite you to step out of your comfort zone and try the new establishments between pilgrimages to the old standbys.

Closings

Taps are in order for the following, which closed since last season:

Al's Louisiana Grill, 9636 Stephen Decatur Highway (Route 611)

BJ's South, 1st Street and the bay

Captain Bob's, 64th Street (Castaways opening here in June)

Captain's Table (in the Santa Maria). Will reopen in condos at same location. Stay tuned!

English Diner, 21st Street & Coastal Highway

English's Family Restaurant, 137th Street & Coastal Highway

Ocean Club, 48th Street & Coastal Highway (now in the Clarion, Coastal Highway and 101st Street)

Weitzel's, 51st St.

New location

Ocean Club, Clarion, Coastal Highway and 101st Street (moved from 48th Street). www.clarionoc.com

New Restaurants

Blue Ox Steakhouse & Raw Bar, 126th Street and Coastal Highway (Bayside), 410-250-6440.

Watch for the Blue Ox, arriving in early June. When the doors swing open to this sleek-looking establishment, patrons will be able to sip their favorite cocktails at the ice bar, a frosty area built right into the bartop. Say goodbye to melted ice and watered-down coolers. Drinks will stay cold between sips. Cool! The family-friendly steakhouse will be open for lunch and dinner daily. In the waiting area kids can chill and pass the time at munchkin-sized coloring tables. Watch this space for more info as the opening date approaches.

Castaways, 64th Street & Bay (site of old Captain Bob's).

The first Ocean City restaurant in many moons to be built from the ground up, Castaways anticipates a mid-June opening. Steaks and seafood (entrees $16-$27) will star at the bayside restaurant with a 3,000-square-foot waterfront deck featuring live music nightly. The restaurant-bar will be open for lunch and dinner daily. Check back here for updates as they become available.

Dr. Unks Bar & Grille, 9636 Stephen Decatur Highway (611), 410-213-7775. www.drunksoc.com

Clubby and warm with earthtones, dark wood, quarry tile, accent mirrors and real plants, Dr. Unks, which opened in April, is the first OC watering hole/restaurant to be totally smoke-free. The restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner daily with a varied menu that's appealing and affordable. Dr. Unks offers eat-in or carry-out service; rooms for private parties, catering, 2 large-screen plasma TVs and daily Happy Hour specials. It's also convenient to the outlet malls.

Miyako Japanese Steahouse, 12902 Ocean Gateway (and Inlet Isle Lane), West OC.

Watch for the opening of this large, upscale steakhouse (same owners as Panda Buffet in White Marlin Mall) in late May or early June. We'll fill in the blanks as they become available.

Mother's Cantina, 2810 Coastal Highway (in 28th Street Plaza), 410-289-1330.

Mother's opened in January in the space formerly occupied by Su Casa. Whet your whistle with a potent margarita while mining the menu in this casual, family-friendly Tex-Mex eatery featuring 9 mouthwatering appetizers such as ceviche, fried jalapeno poppers and pan-seard shrimp in a tomato chipotle sauce. Who needs dinner? Well, maybe you do! The entrees--fajitas, fish of the day prepared any way you like, crabmeat enchiladas, burritos, steak, seafood combo platter--come with beans and rice and corn bread. The prices are south-of-the-border reasonable, ranging from $10 to $20. Small and late-night appetites will be well satisfied by Mother's "Pick Me Ups": tacos (beef, chicken or fish), burgers, or a large taco salad. Mother's is open daily from 3pm to 2am.

Ocean Club, in the Clarion Hotel and Resort Center, Coastal Highway and 101st Street (oceanside). 410-250-6440.

Don't go looking for the ever-popular Ocean Club on 48th Street. While you were hibernating over the winter, this ever-popular OC nightclub moved to a dazzling new home in the Clarion where a stunning window wall overlooks the Atlantic. Horizons restaurant (at mealtime) morphs into the Ocean Club promptly at 9pm when live entertainment takes center stage nightly until 2am. Horizons is open for breakfast 7-11am. Lunch is served 11:30am-3pm. Dinner service begins at 5pm. If you don't feel like changing out of shorts, head for the Breakers Pub next door, serving lite fare (oversized sandwiches and salads, raw bar; most items under $10). You may also order the same delicious entrees posted on Horizons' dinner menu. At day's end, slip into a fisherman-style chair and kick back with a sundowner during Happy Hour, 4-7pm.

Plantation House Bar & Grille, 12308 Ocean Gateway, in the Gina Renee Plaza (Route 50), West OC, 410-213-7786.

Beth Rubin

Plantation House Bar & Grille in West OC

If the kitchen matches the setting and ambiance at this lovely restaurant backing on Herring Creek, we will all be winners. The decor is tasteful, upscale tropical with high ceilings.The bar area is separate. Deck dining on the creek is available, weather permitting. Ample space between tables allows for intimate conversation. The lunch menu features the restaurant's signature Blue Crab Corn Chowder and more than a dozen appetizers, half of which are seafood based. Salads are huge. The Caesar can be had with grilled chicken, shrimp, tuna or steak; or lump crabmeat (be still, my heart!) Among the 20 sandwiches are a Turkey Reuben, Crab Cake, Plantation Club and Fried Rockfish. At dinner, the appetizers, salads and sides are priced the same as at lunch. Now that's refreshing! Entrees include a wide range of steaks (inlcuding a Kobe ribeye), seafood, chicken, pasta and combination platters (surf and turf). The Children's Menu features 8 items ($3.50-$7). A well-rounded list of sparkling wines, reds and whites is available by the bottle. A dozen wines can be ordered by the glass (most in the $6-$9 range).

Lagniappe (something extra)

I had the pleasure in April of dining at a restaurant which was new on the OC dining scene in 2004. For a different dining experience run, don't walk, to:

Liquid Assets, 9211 Coastal Highway (92nd Street), 410-723-6762. www.ocliquidassets.com. I get around, but I had never eaten in a wine shop before I happened on Liquid Assets. Don't let the Coastal Highway setting in a strip mall put you off. The wine cellar rivals many big-city restaurants. And the food is superb. Here a newbie can feel comfortable bellying up to the bar with locals who gather to enjoy fine wine or a designer martini, gossip with their neighbors or read a book. If you want more privacy, choose a table or settle into one of two comfy couches. Depending on your appetite, graze or build a meal from the obscenely delicious appetizers, burgers, BBQ, bruschetta, seafood, corn and seafood chowder, and other lite fare. The menu and specials change daily. Tuesday is Oyster Night. Thursday a pound of mussels steamed in garlic, onion and tomato broth is $9. I urge you to try the grilled cheese sandwich of Fontina, fresh spinach, carmelized onions and red bell peppers on toasted organic wheat bread. I tried it. And I'll never be the same. Who knew grilled cheese could taste this heavenly? Liquid Assets is open daily from 11:30am to 11pm Sunday-Thursday; until midnight (or later) Friday and Saturday. For more formal dining and supper-club atmosphere, head next door to LA's sibling, Nebula.

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